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From World Kitchens to Wine Country | Estancia Osteria

Liane Morris
Estancia Osteria
IMAGES: MEGANN EVANS (www.megannevans.com)

Nestled in the serene Mount View area of the Hunter Valley, Estancia Osteria has fast become a standout culinary destination.

 

Opened only last April, this family-run restaurant within the picturesque Briar Ridge Vineyard brings a unique blend of South American, Mediterranean, and Northern Italian influences to its menu. Founders Gabriel Rodrigues and James Orlowski have transformed the space into a haven for food enthusiasts, combining live-fire cooking, locally sourced ingredients, and heartfelt hospitality.


The founders' journey to creating Estancia Osteria is as compelling as their dishes. James, who grew up on a New Zealand dairy farm, developed his culinary passion early, influenced by his father's work as a cheesemonger and the fresh, quality produce that surrounded him. After beginning his career in a hunting lodge preparing game meats and fresh-caught

salmon, he realised his true calling lay in hospitality.


"Hospitality was the ideal career for me," James shares.


"It's people-oriented, and I love the discipline and creativity it demands."


His path led him to Peru, where he spent ten years immersing himself in one of the world's most diverse culinary traditions.


"It's the best food in the world," he shares enthusiastically.


"It's a wonderful fusion of Spanish, Latin, South American and Japanese, and it's exciting to marry that with Gabriel's expertise in French cuisine at our own restaurant."

Estancia Osteria

Originally from Brazil, Gabriel brings his own rich culinary background, having worked with Michelin-starred chefs specialising in French cuisine and studying traditional osterias in Northern Italy. His journey also took him through Spain on extensive food research tours before settling in Australia over a decade ago, where he fell in love with the Hunter Valley's charm and potential.


The two chefs' paths crossed multiple times over the years, sharing kitchen spaces and ideologies, before they decided to venture out on their own, frustrated with the hospitality industry's post-pandemic challenges.


When they discovered the space at Briar Ridge, previously named Osteria, it felt like destiny. "I was in Italy studying osterias, and James discovered this venue previously named Osteria," Gabriel recalls.

The pair personally renovated the restaurant, crafting furniture from reclaimed timber and handling electrical and plumbing work themselves. The result is a warm, intimate space with a treehouse-like ambience, accommodating 50 diners and featuring an open kitchen that makes guests part of the culinary experience.


The heart of Estancia Osteria's menu lies in its unwavering commitment to quality and seasonal produce.


"James tells me what he'd like to see on the menu; we discuss our ideas, cook together, run tests and try the food together. I run the kitchen, and James looks after our customers," Gabriel explains.


"Having a chef work the floor makes it easy to manage expectations. It has great benefits for the diners. James knows how the food is prepared, so we can seamlessly accommodate allergies and changes."


Their dedication to quality is evident in every aspect of their operation. "We call our suppliers every week," Gabriel continues.


"If we can maintain the quality of a dish with what can be supplied, we may keep it on the menu. We will not accept lower quality just to keep a particular dish. We will change it up completely to ensure top-quality produce. Nothing is frozen; everything is locally sourced and made from scratch."


This commitment shows in their regularly evolving menu, which changes every six to ten days to reflect seasonal offerings.


The restaurant offers several themed dining experiences that have quickly become local favourites. Their Smokey Sunday Parilla ($89 per person) celebrates the art of open-fire cooking with a feast featuring Pukara Estate Lamb Rump, Grilled Chicken Supreme, Wagyu Skewer, and Spanish Chorizo, accompanied by sides of Chimichurri, House Pickles, Panzanella, and Crispy Potato. Fridays feature a Spanish-influenced seafood Paella Share Banquet, bringing the vibrant flavours of Spain to the Hunter Valley with premium seafood and bold spices, complemented by handpicked Spanish wines and

sangria.

Estancia Osteria

Thursday's popular Pasta Night offers exceptional value with three courses for $39 per person, featuring dishes like Potato

Gnocchi with Pistachio and Basil Cream, Lemon Whipped Ricotta, and Mascarpone and Spinach Tortellini with Caccio E Pepe. The menu consistently highlights their expertise in live-fire cooking through dishes like Iron Bark smoked lamb shoulder, smoked brisket ragout pappardelle, and their signature ceviche.


The family-run nature of the restaurant adds a personal touch that guests immediately notice. James' wife handles coffee service, creating a warm, welcoming atmosphere from the morning’s first cup, while his son's contributions to the menu demonstrate the next generation's growing culinary passion. The team grows their own herbs, sources honey from the Briar Ridge estate and has ambitious plans to expand their vegetable gardens in 2025, furthering their commitment to sustainable, local ingredients.


Estancia Osteria has quickly become a cornerstone of the Mount View community, collaborating with local businesses to enhance the area's appeal.


"We're in good company with Bistro Molines just up the hill," James notes.


"Mount View Estate has built new villas accommodating up to about 40 people, and there's a new restaurant just across the road for large weddings. The local boutique wineries are starting to work together to attract more people to the Mount View area, and we're all hoping to establish it further as a must-visit destination slightly different from central Pokolbin."


The restaurant welcomes all types of guests, offering lawn games, abundant birdlife, and pet-friendly amenities. They take pride in accommodating dietary needs and allergies, creating bespoke menus when necessary. The atmosphere remains calm and welcoming, with Gabriel noting,

Estancia Osteria

"We cook silently, with minimal talk. It creates a peaceful environment that diners truly appreciate."


Looking ahead, the team has exciting plans for growth. They're expanding their wine list to include more local producers and enhancing the dining space with better climate control, fans, and additional windows. Their 2025 plans include launching innovative farm-to-plate events featuring beef sourced from local cattle farmers within just two weeks of processing, further strengthening their ties to the local agricultural community.


Estancia Osteria is open Wednesday to Sunday, offering breakfast on weekends and dinner from Thursday to Saturday. For reservations, phone 4060 9048 or visit www.estanciaosteria.com.au/book-a-table.33

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