Escape to Edinburgh Where Medieval Meets Maritime
The enduring appeal of Edinburgh lies in its ability to preserve and reimagine its heritage, and whilst that may be true, it is for this reason that you need to plan the timing of your escape to Edinburgh.
Unless you are explicitly visiting Edinburgh for the annual Royal Military Tattoo or the Fringe Festival, steer clear of August (and probably a couple of weeks on either side!)
Why? Simply put – crowds - enormous crowds. Even a week into September, the crowds were a source of intense claustrophobia. Not to mention the removal of infrastructure related to both events, which was still causing road closures and dominating photos of the castle’s esplanade (the grandstands take three weeks to erect and the same to dismantle).
That said – Edinburgh is a must-visit on any UK holiday – just choose your times carefully!
Dominating the city's skyline from its perch atop an extinct volcano, Edinburgh Castle stands as Scotland's most visited historic site, embodying nearly a millennium of Scottish royal history. The iconic fortress draws over two million visitors annually (mainly in August, lol) and offers an unparalleled journey through Scotland's turbulent past. Occupied since the
Iron Age, the fortress has witnessed countless sieges and served as a royal residence, military garrison, and state prison.
The Great Hall, commissioned by James IV in 1511, hosted elaborate state ceremonies and remains one of Scotland's finest medieval interiors, and the Scottish Crown Jewels, hidden during Cromwell's invasion and rediscovered by Sir Walter Scott in 1818, rest here alongside the Stone of Destiny, used in royal coronations for centuries.
Indeed, the approach to the castle is a tourist attraction in itself. This broad plaza, created in the 18th century, once served as a medieval marketplace and site of public executions. Today, cannons line the ramparts, while statues of Scottish heroes Robert the Bruce and William Wallace guard the castle's imposing entrance.
Allow about three hours to see everything the castle offers visitors (including spectacular views), and make sure you grab a cuppa in the numerous cafes dotted throughout the grounds. Exit the castle and take a slow walk along The Royal Mile, Edinburgh's historic spine, chronicling the city's evolution from medieval burgh to modern capital. Among its attractions,
the Scotch Whiskey Experience occupies the former premises of the Castlehill School (1888), now housing the world's most
extensive collection of Scottish whiskey. Each bottle tells a story of regional tradition and craftsmanship.
St. Giles' Cathedral, often called the "Mother Church of Presbyterianism," has been a religious centre since 1124. The iconic crown spire, added in 1495, symbolises royal patronage. The Thistle Chapel, completed in 1911, serves as the spiritual home of The Order of the Thistle, Scotland's highest order of chivalry. It is also free to enter (which was a welcome change).
At the end of the Royal Mile, you’ll discover the modern Houses of Parliament and the historic Palace of Holyrood House,
which emerged from a 12th-century abbey guest house to become Scotland's principal royal residence. Here, Mary Queen of Scots chambers remain largely unchanged since her residence in the 1560s, preserving the scene of dramatic events, including the murder of her secretary, David Rizzio. The adjacent ruins of Holyrood Abbey, founded in 1128 by King David
I, tell of Scotland's pre-reformation religious life.
Moving onto more modern times, make sure you take the time to visit the waterfront area of Leith – or you could do what we did and stay in this area. It’s a little out of the hustle and bustle and a short bus or Uber ride to the overcrowded Old Town of Edinburgh. It also offers a number of interesting tourist stops, fine dining experiences, unique accommodation options and fabulous old pubs that tell tales of its Maritime heritage.
The Water of Leith, Edinburgh's primary river, has shaped the city's development since Roman times and has been Edinburgh's maritime gateway since the 14th century. Medieval mills once lined its banks, powering Edinburgh's industries. Today, the river walk reveals layers of industrial heritage, from remnants of grain mills to converted warehouse
buildings. It is also the permanent home of the retired Britannia. The Royal Yacht Britannia, which served the British Royal Family for over 40 years, represents the culmination of Britain's maritime tradition. Launched in 1953, the vessel travelled over a million nautical miles, hosting state visits and royal honeymoons before finding its resting place
in Leith.
It is well worth doing a tour of the Britannia – it is not only fascinating to see the inner workings of what was essentially a moving palace but also provides an interesting look into more modern royal times. The State Dining Room, where world leaders gathered for diplomatic dinners, maintains its original setup, complete with a Welmar baby grand piano – one of three identical instruments rotated to maintain perfect tune despite ocean conditions.
A short walk from the Britannia, the Port of Leith Distillery, Scotland's first vertical distillery, represents the latest chapter in Edinburgh's spiritmaking history. Built on land that once housed maritime warehouses, it continues Leith's centuries-old tradition of spirit production and trade (and provides visitors with some pretty incredible views of the coast, too!) The area's first recorded distillery dates to 1777, and Leith was once Scotland's primary wine and spirits port, so it’s fitting that this distillery has found its home here.
Leith is also an excellent place to stay (which we did), playing host to two distinctive floating hotels that echo the area's seafaring past. The Ocean Mist (I highly recommend it!), moored in the heart of the harbour, pays homage to traditional maritime aesthetics with its brass-fitted cabins and nautical décor. Meanwhile, The Fingal represents a more luxurious
chapter in naval history – a meticulously converted lighthouse tender that once served Scotland's northern waters. The vessel's transformation into a five-star floating hotel preserves many original features while adding art deco touches that recall the golden age of ocean travel.
From its medieval Royal Mile to its historic port, Edinburgh offers visitors an immersive journey through time. Whether dining aboard a converted lighthouse tender, exploring a medieval castle or sampling whiskey in a vertical distillery, visitors can experience a city where every corner reveals centuries of Scottish history.
